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Arno — Mon, 23 Jan 2012 00:00:43 +0000

Article: The Limits of Willpower - What does it mean to have an iron will, to use your willpower to deal with stress and improve mental fitness? - Willpower tends to focus on forcing a situation to what you want it to be. You lack proficiency with a skill, yet you use your will to force the outcome to what you desire. Let’s say you’re afraid of falling. You desire to be free of this fear. So, you use your willpower to force yourself to commit to climbing and push the fear out. - This approach doesn’t improve awareness of the skills you lack; it covers up that deficit. You’re interested only in what you want the outcome to be, not what you need to learn. This isn’t aligned with the learning process or with developing awareness. - Being afraid of falling has merit. Don’t ignore it. That fear stops you from taking inappropriate risks. Rather, find ways to gain experience to improve your skills. Do this by practicing falling. It’s important to see reality as clearly as possible and then take actionable steps to move through fears. Instead of using willpower, you need to improve your ability to what the situation requires, not the other way around. This builds awareness power, not willpower.

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Arno — Mon, 09 Jan 2012 00:00:12 +0000

Article: Positive Thinking Sucks - A common question I hear from climbers is: “How can I get rid of my negative thinking?” They believe negative thinking hinders their performance; they would like to replace it with positive thinking. Does negative thinking have to be changed into positive thinking? Or, should we move beyond negative and positive thinking altogether? - What improves awareness? Negative and positive are two aspects of the same reality. They balance each other. If we ignore the negative and enhance the positive then we limit our awareness and understanding of reality. Positive thinking essentially says negative thinking is wrong; it needs to be changed into positive thinking. - Positive thinking can be equated with rearranging the furniture in our minds. We don’t like the furniture in its current arrangement so we switch it around to what we do like. This does nothing for improving mental fitness or awareness. Developing awareness seeks to remove the furniture completely. - The world is made of cycles. We cannot always think positively. Eventually negative thinking will exert itself to bring us back into balance. Don’t push out negative thinking or replace it with positive thinking. Instead, develop awareness by moving beyond negative or positive. We do this by redirecting our attention to the task in the present moment. - Developing awareness requires that we see reality completely, not in a biased, positive or negative manner. Starting from a foundation of developing awareness allows us to take a step back and see both negative and positive aspects of reality. Doing this helps us assess risks better and take appropriate risks. -

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Arno — Mon, 12 Dec 2011 00:00:46 +0000

Article: Are Beliefs Coping Strategies? -

One strategy for goal attainment is to strengthen our beliefs. But how do beliefs affect risk-taking and improving performance? Since awareness development is the underlying goal, do beliefs hinder or help that process? Could beliefs be a coping method for dealing with stress that hinders awareness development? Let’s investigate. - Definition: be•lieve To have confidence in the truth, the existence, or the reliability of something, although without absolute proof that one is right in doing so: Only if one believes in something can one act purposefully. - This definition points out two aspects of beliefs. The first point could hinder awareness: we invest our attention in something that isn’t grounded in absolute proof. The second point emphasizes the importance beliefs have in taking action: we act purposefully based on the strength of our belief. Perhaps we can minimize the negative effects on attention and maximize the positive effects on acting purposefully? - Beliefs tend to be associated with end results. “I believe falling is dangerous.” End results label an activity in some way, such as “falling” being “dangerous.” Labeling gives us comfort and a way to cope with the stress. We have no absolute proof that we are right; we simply believe it to achieve comfort. We can act purposefully with end result beliefs, but as in falling example, we act purposefully by not learning how to fall. No awareness is increased about falling since we haven’t engaged it. - What if we grounded our beliefs in processes instead? “I believe I can learn to fall safely.” “Learn” isn’t a label, but rather a process we can go through. By grounding our beliefs in processes we aren’t “coping” with stress; we actually embrace it. With process beliefs we have no absolute proof that we are right; yet we take action to find that proof and learn. In the case of the falling example, we act purposefully by learning how to fall. Awareness is increased through our engagement. -

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Arno — Mon, 28 Nov 2011 00:00:45 +0000

Article: “I Use Affirmations?” - Let’s discuss some tools we can use once goals are set. Many self-help and performance coaches insist that affirmations improve our mental fitness. An affirmation, as used by self-help coaches, is a tool we can use. It is a specific, brief, personal phrase, stated in present tense, with a positive emphasis. Example: “I am a confident climber.” - We need to define our approach to mental fitness before we can assess the effectiveness of affirmations. The usual approach is adding layers of tricks and techniques to our existing knowledge. The Warrior’s Way approach centers on developing awareness. To become more aware we need honesty, expanded focus, and simplicity, applied in our climbing. Its emphasis is one of tearing down rather than adding layers. The question to ask is: “Are affirmations tricks that adds layers?” The short answer is “yes.” Let’s look at why this is true. - Affirmations fail as effective mental fitness tools in four ways: 1. They create a false reality 2. They narrow focus 3. They create complexity 4. They are intellectual exercises - False reality The word “affirmation” is defined as: the assertion that something exists or is true. Using the sample affirmation “I am a confident climber,” shows us that we assert that we are confident when we are not. Affirmations paint a positive picture of how we want to be in the future, which differs from how we are today, in the present. We assert something that isn’t true. Affirmations are essentially lies. We cannot improve mental fitness by lying to ourselves. Improvement comes from honesty. To improve confidence we need an honest assessment of where we lack confidence and develop drills we can do to address those issues. - Narrow focus Affirmations narrow our focus. This comes from the “positive” portion of the affirmation. By emphasizing the positive we diminish our receptivity to negative aspects of our reality. Being neutral, rather than negative or positive, keeps attention expanded and allows us to perceive the whole situation. By being receptive to both negative and positive we improve our recognition of performance issues. - Complexity Affirmations create mental complexity. They add layers of programming to what already exists in our minds. The learning process includes removing limiting ways of thinking and acting. It requires changing or breaking down portions of our mental foundation. We need to break down the complexity of the foundation to a simpler structure before being able to progress. - Intellectual exercises Learning is the incremental process of engaging a little stress and converting it into comfort. Learning needs an experiential component to be complete. Affirmations emphasize an intellectual approach. They focus on doing mental gymnastics in the mind without taking any associated action. - If we lack confidence then we need to be honest with ourselves about the skills that need to be improved. Next, we keep our attention expanded by moving beyond labeling the issue as negative or positive. We stay neutral to maintain awareness of complete reality. Next, keep it simple. When our attention is distracted toward lacking confidence, we redirect our attention to practice the drills to improve confidence. Doing this will allow us to experience the level of confidence we have and continue to improve confidence as we practice. -

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Arno — Mon, 14 Nov 2011 00:00:15 +0000

Article: Staying True to Your Motivation

Chris Sharma is known for stating that what helps him stay motivated is to remain true to his motivation. If he doesn’t feel motivated to get on a particular project, he doesn’t. But how do we distinguish this from simple fear and avoidance?

We tend to be motivated if we feel we will get something from the experience. What is it that we get from a climbing experience? Well, two things: the end result (redpoint/on-sight) and the process (enjoying the climbing and learning from it).

What causes Chris’ motivation to rise and fall? Is it high when he feels he will send his project and low when he feels he won’t? I don’t think so. How many times did he get on First Round, First Minute over the two year period that he was working on it? “Too many times,” he is quoted as saying. If he was just motivated by the end result, and still continued to get on the project, always falling off the last move, then he really wouldn’t be demonstrating that he is being true to his motivation. Something is driving his motivation rather than simply getting the send.

You can be true to your motivation even if you are end result motivated. However, with end motivation you won’t get on climbs where you have a low chance of redpointing. You can also be true to your motivation by being process motivated. With a process motivation you get on climbs that teach you something, ones where you enjoy the actual climbing, even if they are very difficult for you.

To be true to your motivation, you need to clarify what goals you have and set them up in the appropriate hierarchy. With end goals secondary and process goals primary, you’ll be able to stay true to your motivation while you work toward accomplishing those difficult end result goals.

Practice Tip: Embrace Stress to Maintain Motivation

In the last lesson you listed 10- 5- and 1-year goals. These are end goals. You also listed process goals (the second bullet point). An important part of process goals is to enjoy the stress that occurs while climbing. Notice that your process goals have an element of stress associated with them. Now, get excited about that stress. That’s where the learning occurs and the enjoyment. And, if you embrace that stress instead of avoiding it, you’ll be motivated by the learning process and better able to recognize if you are being true to your motivatiStaying True to Your Motivation

Staying True to Your Motivation

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Arno — Mon, 31 Oct 2011 00:00:19 +0000

The last several lessons focused on decision-making and the creative process. Now let us touch on a few final topics as this year comes to an end. The end of the year is a great time to contemplate the past year and what we’d like to accomplish next year.

Contemplation requires us to slow down from our hectic pace, stop, and think. We need time to think without the pressures of daily life. The first step in goal setting is carving out time for doing this. What works well for me is to sit on my back patio, get a brew like coffee or beer, and take in my surrounding. It’s autumn right now so the maple leaves are turning yellow and red, falling to the ground and covering the lawn. The temps are perfect.

Just sit, take in the environment, and let your feelings arise as you reflect on the past year. When you slow down like this, you allow feelings about the quality of your life to surface. Have you challenged yourself this last year? Did you accomplish what you intended? Did you learn anything and expand your awareness? It’s in moments like these that you become aware of deeper issues and desires in your life.

How does this manifest itself in your climbing? How have you challenged yourself on climbs? Did you accomplish routes or climbing goals you intended? Did you learn more about why you’re fearful or what limits your climbing? Are you going to the same ole climbing areas, climbing the same ole routes? Do you really want to be sitting here next year feeling the same way?

Take this time, this moment, to ask these questions, contemplate the answers, and set goals that will create the climbing life you desire.

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Arno — Mon, 17 Oct 2011 00:05:47 +0000

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Arno — Mon, 03 Oct 2011 00:00:24 +0000

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Arno — Mon, 19 Sep 2011 00:00:18 +0000

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