Concentration

Concentration focuses attention either broadly or narrowly. We use a peripheral focus when concentrating attention broadly so that attention is spread out in the whole field of view. Doing this helps us see all the information in a situation. We use a convergent focus when concentrating attention narrowly so that attention is only on one part of the situation.
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We can focus attention narrowly to think through a risk during preparation or execute a crux move. Some situations, like redpointing, require us to follow through with our well developed plan. We have gathered all the information we need from our rehearsal of the route. During the redpoint effort, we need to narrow our focus to the specific sequences we’ve worked out. In redpointing we need to concentrate attention on our well developed plan and keep it from straying to other options.
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We can also focus attention broadly to gather as much information as possible and blend well with the route. Situations, such as on-sighting, require us to take in as much information as possible so we don’t miss crucial holds. However, since we’re unfamiliar with how to use those holds, we need to stay open to modifying our climbing plan. When on-sighting we need to concentrate attention broadly to modify our plan and keep it from straying to an old plan that doesn’t work anymore.
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Ultimately it isn’t as “black and while” as I’ve described above. We need to find a balance between narrow and broad concentration of attention. In both redpointing and on-sighting, we need the ability to narrow attention when needed AND broaden attention when needed.
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When redpointing, for instance, we focus narrowly during critical crux moves, but in general keep attention broadly focused so we stay open to dealing with the stress of the effort. When on-sighting, we focus attention more broadly when gathering information, but narrow attention once we’ve decided what to do. We may shift between narrow and broad many times. The key is to know whether we’ll stick to our plan because we’re redpointing or modify our plan because we’re on-sighting.
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6 Responses to “Concentration”

  1. John A Murray Says:

    February 20th, 2012 at 8:42 am

    Interesting as always Arno, and adds another layer to the learning process. Learning to concentrate in an appropriate manner.

    Do you recommend specific drills, or just trying to train focus through repetition?

    Kind regards

    John

  2. Arno Says:

    February 21st, 2012 at 9:04 am

    Hi John, Yes drills!
    Narrow concentration of attention: do dynos where you need to focus attention very narrowly on a specific end hold.
    Broad concentration of attention: climb with a soft-eyes (peripheral) focus, spreading out attention to the whole field of view. Do this on toprope so you aren’t distracted by being on lead or fear of falling.
    Arno

  3. Andy Smith Says:

    February 21st, 2012 at 1:29 pm

    Good afternoon Arno,
    Any suggestions for someone with ADHD who has been climbing for 30 years? Not a joke. This is one reason I climb. It helps me force concentration and to some extent it works but I still a struggle alot. Thanks ahead of time!

  4. Arno Says:

    February 21st, 2012 at 6:24 pm

    Hi Andy, I don’t know the details of ADHD but I do know that some people with it say that climbing helps force attention into the moment which helps them. Not sure how that would translate to regular life. Perhaps it would be helpful when doing anything, climbing or otherwise to:
    1. Set an intention for what you will do
    2. Notice when attention is distracted
    3. Redirect attention to your intention.
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    In climbing that works like:
    Intention to commit to breathing/moving/staying relaxed. Notice when your breath becomes shallow or you tense up. Redirect attention to breathing/relaxing/moving. Arno

  5. Andy Smith Says:

    February 21st, 2012 at 8:02 pm

    Arno,
    Thank you. Climbing is a very imprtant part of my life and I continue to look for new ways to improve my focus, ability and skill.

  6. Marta Reece Says:

    February 23rd, 2012 at 12:43 pm

    I have a mild case of ADHD and have suspected for a long time that this is a part of why I, and probably many others in the same boat, enjoy climbing so much. For me the ability to concentrate is dramatically improved during a climb. I believe that people are designed to concentrate on what is important and that when we feel threatened enough to be stimulated but not enough to panic, we are at our best. In other words, I think that we do not climb in spite of the dangers but because of them.

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