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Robby Maffei — Mon, 26 Jul 2010 17:43:56 +0000

Hey Arno,
I have noticed that when I set my intention to only “engage” a route that the concept of performance anxiety is largely diminished if not totally removed. This way I can climb with better attention, usually more efficiently, and probably more relaxed. To experience a climb in this way, regardless of the outcome or the beginning, is a much more positive experience and very beneficial for future climbs. Took me a while to learn this, but I like the concept and it seems to be working for me.
Cheers

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Arno — Wed, 21 Jul 2010 14:04:41 +0000

Hi John, I experienced a similar situation last week when my son Ian and I were climbing the Grand Teton in Wyoming. Sitting at home in the comfort of an air conditioned house it’s easy to dream big about climbing the Grand. But, when we got engaged the sheer effort of hiking to the Lower Saddle (7 miles and 5500 feet of elevation gain) put us outside our comfort zones. I’m used to that sort of thing because I’ve climbed the Grand several times. But, Ian wasn’t. Next day we started our summit attempt via the Exum Ridge. The mountain was in clouds, very windy, and cold. We got to a point were we needed to traverse across to a ledge called Wall Street, but couldn’t see how to proceed due to the clouds. We waited a while for the clouds to clear, but they didn’t. Ian was getting stretched way outside his comfort zone and wanted to go down. I recognized this as the way we all react to stress and discomfort. I suggested that we climb the Owen/Spaulding route which is more straight-forward. Ian still wanted to go down. So, I used the TAP (The Awakening Process) process outlined in the Espresso Lessons book with him. The last step in that process is: find little ways to engage. Our minds will get overwhelmed when thinking of the whole climb. So, I suggested climbing to the Upper Saddle, which is a small step in the direction of the summit. Ian said, “Well, what do I have to lose?” He saw that as a small step that wasn’t as stressful as climbing the whole route. We climbed to the Upper Saddle. It was still cloudy, very windy, cold. After some time waiting for it to clear (I was concerned a little about route finding above that point) we descended.
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So, for your situation, when your mind shouts, find little actions you can take to stay engaged. Arno

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John A Murray — Wed, 21 Jul 2010 08:47:04 +0000

As usual excellent stuff. My problem ıs the ınner voıce that (sometımes) shouts so loudly, even when ıt ıs ınapproprıate, that I end up lıstenıng. I can decıde to go for the goal on the ground but when the last bolt ıs well below….