There are many types of fears, but most types are rooted in fear of death. Death represents an ultimate unknown, an ultimate stress or discomfort, so we fear it. A more typical form of “fear of death” that we experience in our climbing is fear of discomfort.
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We may experience fear of failure or success, or “failing” in front of others. These fears originate from our egos. Our egos feels diminished when we fail and don’t perform to others expectations. We fear succeeding because we feel others will expect us to continue to perform at that new level. These situations are all uncomfortable for our egos. Ego-based fears threaten our psychology.
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We may fear heights, falling, or exerting effort. These fears originate from the situation. Situational fears heighten concerns about our physical safety. We fear heights because we feel exposed. We fear falling because we could become injured. Then there’s fear of exerting effort. A challenging route will push us outside our comfort zones. Since we desire comfort we tend to fear such exertion. Situational fears threaten our physiology.
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The origin of all these fears is fear of death and discomfort. They occur because our attention has been distracted from the present moment. Regardless of the illusory fear, our minds are thinking of what will happen in the future instead of what is happening in the present. With our attention in the moment, focused on the current task, all these fears will diminish or be eliminated.
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Hello Arno, You may recall we climbed together at the RRG several yars ago when I was on the road and still relatively young. My problem ever since I began climbing over 45 years ago has been exactly what you have defined. Fear of failing. I especially feel the pressure of this fear when there are people I know watching me climb. I feel the weight of their expectations (if they’re friends) or their secret desire to see me fail (if they’re competitors or not so friendly). Now that I’m approaching 65 I am realizing that my climbing is not improving with each passing season as it used to. Now when I climb I have my own reputation to live up to and it is getting harder and harder all the time. If I’m having a good day as I did this past weekend my ego gets a good stroking, but those days are few and far between now. Most of the time I find I can’t do routes I could do only last year. It’s the hands and the fingers that are letting me down these days. My fingers were always my secret weapon. I could crimp anything. This has caused my confidence to sag. I am passing up leads I used to do because I don’t trust my fingers. How do I face this changing body of mine and deal with it rationally? I know there are a lot of old gaffers like me here in the NE who are still out there pulling down. Some even older than I am who are still climbing strong. Every body is different. How do I deal with mine? I think more needs to be studied and written about the aging climber today. Perhaps a book. Thanks, Arno.
I will be going to the Red in early June on my way west for the summer. It’s been a long time since I have hit the climbing road. It would be great to cimb with you at the Red.
Safe climbing, Steve
Arno,
I think it is important to distinguish between fear and anxiety.
Fear is an appropriate response to a scary event. Anxiety is a fear response that is inappropriate relative to the danger. Fear of hitting the rock or ground on a relatively hard R/X route is appropriate. Worry of decking on an overhung sport route is inappropriate (assuming the air is all one will hit) and thus is anxiety.
Hi Steve, Yes, I remember you. Been a while. A couple of things:
1. Your comment: “It’s the hands and the fingers that are letting me down these days.” Think about how those hand and fingers have helped you in years past. They did a lot for you. No need to talk bad about them now.
2. I luckily meet Fritz Wiessner once when he was 75. He was searching out new places to climb and found us at Bee rock in Tennessee. The old dude was still excited about just getting out there, exploring, and moving on stone. In his aged wisdom he said: “I am appreciating the difficulty of climbs as I work my way back down through them.” He was struggling on 5.5s but enjoying it.
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Do you really expect to continue to climb at the level you did when you were young? If so, you’ll continue to be frustrated and lose motivation. We go through phases in our lives. The “athletic phase” occurs when we are young and have strong bodies. You aren’t young anymore. Consider shifting into another phase, perhaps mentoring younger climbers, or at least digging into why you climb. Could it be that the simple act of climbing is enjoyable, regardless of the level? I’m 57 and not climbing what I used to but still love getting out there. Do you really want your ego to rule how much enjoyment you receive from climbing? I don’t think so. Could you climb for other reasons besides achievement?
I won’t be at the Red until July. Would be nice to link up and climb sometime. Thanks for posting your comments.
Best, Arno
Hi Doug, thanks for your comments. Point taken. Consider that we all understand words like “fear” or “anxiety” differently. So, going to the dictionary for “fear” we find…
1. a distressing emotion aroused by impending danger, evil, pain, etc., whether the threat is real or imagined; the feeling or condition of being afraid. Synonyms: foreboding, apprehension, consternation, dismay, dread, terror, fright, panic, horror, trepidation, qualm. Antonyms: courage, security, calm, intrepidity.
2. a specific instance of or propensity for such a feeling: an abnormal fear of heights. Synonyms: phobia, aversion; bête noire, bogy, bogey, bugbear. Antonyms: liking, fondness, penchant, predilection.
3. concern or anxiety; solicitude: a fear for someone’s safety.
4. reverential awe, especially toward God: the fear of God. Synonyms: awe, respect, reverence, veneration.
5. something that causes feelings of dread or apprehension; something a person is afraid of: Cancer is a common fear.
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and for anxiety
1. distress or uneasiness of mind caused by fear of danger or misfortune.
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Fear and anxiety are basically interchangeable. My point is this: The fears that you describe as appropriate are survival fears. Illusory fears are caused by lack of attention in the moment and cause anxiety. No difference between illusory fears and anxiety the way I understand it.
Your thoughts? a
Hi Arno,
I agree that if we focus on the current task (the present instead of the future) all these fears will diminish or be eliminated but if I redirect my attention (as you suggest in the practice tip) by looking down to assess the fall in the case of fear of falling wouldn´t I be focusing in the future?
Rgds
María
Hello Maria,
Thanks for your question. There are 2 basic tasks to focus attention on: thinking tasks and doing tasks. When you are stopped and need to think about the risk, you need to look at all relevant information. Looking down to assess the fall (how long would it be, are there any obstacles, etc) allows you to focus attention, in the present, so you think about the components of the risk. So, you are thinking in the present about the characteristics of the fall, not about the future when you may be falling.
Does that help clarify it? a
Hi Steve, Here’s a video about why we climb that could give insight into your own process and motivation: http://www.steepedge.com/all-films/rock-climbing/tea-for-three.html
There is a trailer you can watch to get a sense of the video. Arno
Thanks Arno, it was very clarifying
Arno,
Thanks for the ref to Tea for Three. We watched it, and then watched it again. Last weekend, Mark capably put up his first lead, saying, “It’s time to push the boat out” [a great one-liner from the film].
Sandy