The Art of Redpointing

By Arno Ilgner, Heather Weidner, and Climbing Magazine

  • How to prepare for a redpoint
  • How to work cruxes with different linking systems
  • Psychological refinement: advanced falling (while in committing crux; while skipping a clip; 1st and 3rd person visualization)
  • How to know when to ‘send your project, and when to keep practicing

Heather sent it

She sent it despite her fear of serious injury; of the uncertainty if she could actually do the route. She sent it despite 70+ attempts on a 5.14a trad runout route. Oh, and her belayer was also her husband; how’s that for relationship health?

There are plenty of climbers who climb 5.14 but less than 10 have done China Doll. Heather is one of those 10. And it’s not because she’s just a beast. You don’t need to be a beast to redpoint at your limit.

In fact, physically strength isn’t as important as what Heather developed. 

So how’d she do it? How’d she send China Doll

She has her systems figured out. Not just the basics of watching the weather, figuring out where the yellow C3 went, or what 3 cams to place on her front right gear loop for the crux move.

She does the deeper work most of us don’t do.

She writes out the beta sequence in order to remember since China Doll is so long; preps her mind for a day of climbing work before rolling out of bed; stops using beta when it no longer works; and keeps her head screwed straight went it wants to go sideways.

Heather and I, while considered to be top climbers, aren’t super human.

We have off days just like you, and the same life challenges. Heather and I teach in Art of Redpointing how to climb your best despite the off days.

That route that you’ve been eying? Art of Redpointing teaches you how to send it using our proven systems; systems that work for any climber who loves the challenge of the redpoint.

7 Sins of Redpointing & Succeeding with Failure

Maybe your belayer short changed you on the clip; maybe the dog was barking and took your attention; or a climber a route over was blasting Drake.

All valid reasons for not getting the redpoint. But in reality, most redpoint failures relate to one of these 7 issues:

  1. Not giving a 100 percent and yelling “take!”
  2. Falling due to overall fatigue
  3. Hitting a mental wall
  4. Negative Progress – Unable to repeat sequences and moves over a few days
  5. Not overcoming poor conditions
  6. Having a poor attitude
  7. Tunnel vision and not seeing the holds and sequence(s)

You’ve spent weeks training to get strong. You can go bolt to bolt and reach the anchors. You’ve even linked sections, and yet, still no ‘send

If it’s not your ability or strength causing the failed ‘send, then what?

It’s one of the 7 Sins of Redpointing. 

Art of Redpointing provides step by step videos and text on how to overcome each of the 7 sins of redpointing and how to learn with through failing.

When you watch certain climbers consistently send challenging routes, it isn’t due to pure strength or headspace. They simply practice a very different way of approaching climbing.

Send consistently with the Art of Redpointing.

Why a course on The Art of Red Pointing?

  • How many training courses on getting strong? A lot.
  • How many courses on mental training? A handful
  • How many courses on send at your limit? One
  • The Art of Redpointing is the only course; it is the gap between mental training, strength training, and climbing systems

How Art of Redpointing Works

Who teaches the course?

I do, along with pro-climber, Heather Weidner.

Hi, I’m Arno. Other climbers frequently note me as a pioneering rock climber with bold and dangerous first ascents in the 1970s and ‘80s. After a while, friends and other climbers asked me to help them develop a similar mental ability, eventually leading to the creation of a unique mental training program called The Warrior’s Way.

Since 1995, I’ve helped hundreds of students, every day, climbers, and pro climbers like Heather, sharpen their awareness, focus attention, and understand challenges within a learning-based, risk-taking philosophy.

I hold an American Mountain Guides Association Single Pitch Instructor certification, and reside with family in Nashville, Tennessee.

We’ve designed this course to go at your own pace; do what you can when you can.

Heather and I use videos and photos so you fully understand and see each lesson.

Each session builds on the last one, over 9 weeks, but you can take it as quickly or slowly as you want; and once you purchase the course, the courses is yours forever.

If you have questions or need help, just reach out. We want you to succeed and are happy to answer questions.

What’s included with Art of Redpointing

  1. Lifetime access
  2. Step by step directions and exercises to send your redpoint
  3. Specific drills you can do at home, at the gym, at the cliff
  4. Understanding the 7 Sins of Redpointing leading to lack of sending, and how to fix them for the ‘send

1 payment of

$250

  • Develop Foundational Focus - even during the crux
  • Create Critical Confidence - know you can send routes and you can become the rope gun
  • Get Unwavering Optimism - because you know how to work through the challenges

If you have any questions or concerns about the course, call or email us. We’re happy to help. 615-406-3404 or info@warriorsway.com