Did I Really Need to Choose?
I had an interesting experience doing yoga on my patio during a beautiful autumn day. As I shifted into Triangle pose, I stretched my right arm to the sky and looked up. I noticed a beautiful blue sky. “That color of blue has always been my favorite color,” I said to myself.
Then, I noticed the brilliant colors of the maple tree leaves. They were changing from green to orange, yellow, and red. It was beautiful. I wondered if I preferred the changing colors of the leaves over my favorite blue sky. Did I really need to choose between them?
Experiences, Choosing, & Connection
Experiences are composed of many parts that complement and contrast each other; no individual part stands alone separate from the whole. How the blue sky and colored leaves complement and contrast each other is more interesting than the blue sky alone. Together they give us a deeper feeling of beauty and connectedness.
The mind’s general preference is for comfort. I remember my brother and I choosing our favorite colors when we were young. He chose yellow; I chose blue. “Blue is a better color than yellow because it’s calming,” my ego told me. My ego wanted the comfort of choosing a better color than my brother, so it manufactured a reason to support its choice. Why would “calming” make choosing blue a better choice? The ego doesn’t care about the validity of the reason. It just wants some justification to make it feel better.
Choosing a favorite color may seem like a small thing, but such experiences build on one another. The ego’s preference for comfort builds a value system based almost entirely on feeling more important than others, seeking preferences that distract our attention from working on our weaknesses.

Preferences & Characteristics
This preference for comfort also influences our climbing. Perhaps we’re traditional climbers. Our egos might say: “I prefer traditional climbing because it involves more risk and requires more mental focus than sport climbing.” This may or may not be true, but again, the ego doesn’t care. It only needs a manufactured reason so it can puff itself up.
A better word to use than “preferences” would be “characteristics.” Characteristics include all aspects of a situation, not just the ones we prefer. I perceive a scene as I hold the yoga Triangle pose. Its characteristics consist of blue sky, colored leaves, etc. Including all characteristics helps me perceive the scene as a whole. Doing this expands my awareness of the interconnectedness of the individual characteristics and gives me a more complete understanding of it. Blue is brilliant because of its contrast with the colored leaves.
I perceive my inner mental state during climbing. Its characteristics include the mind, the body, and how they influence each other. Perhaps I’m thinking about being at the next comfortable stance, influencing my body to rush through the stressful climbing. Noticing this, I slow down to influence my thinking, shifting my attention to dealing with the present stress.
Perhaps I’m over-gripping because I’m afraid of falling, influencing my mind to think about falling instead of climbing. Noticing this, I relax my grip to influence my mind, shifting my attention to think about what I need to do to climb. What I do with my body influences my mind and vice versa. Observing my inner state helps me notice this interconnection, respond to it effectively, and not fall victim to my ego’s preferences.
Making the Shift to Expanded Awareness
Shifting from preferences to characteristics is pragmatic. We look at all characteristics of a situation because we need to know all the components of the risk. If we only prefer the comfortable components, then we might ignore the fall consequence and take an inappropriate risk; or, we might ignore a rest stance because we’re rushing to the next comfort zone and perform poorly.
Much of mental training has to do with expanding awareness. Having favorites and preferences interferes with this process. They shrink our awareness, parsing out comfortable parts to keep and stressful parts to ignore. When we look beyond preferences, we begin to connect the parts into an interconnected whole. Instead of looking for blue, we look for how all colors complement and contrast each other to create beauty. Instead of looking for climbing situations that prop up the ego, we engage new climbing situations that allow us to learn.
Practice Tip: Preference for Weaknesses
Do you prefer sport climbing over gym climbing; trad climbing over bouldering? There’s nothing wrong with having a preferred type of climbing you enjoy. But, if you want to grow as a climber, then have a preference for developing your weaknesses.
Here are some suggestions:
- Do other types of climbing that aren’t your preferred type.
- Go to new climbing areas that you haven’t visited.
- Climb routes you’ve never done.
- If you are mostly on-sighting, then start a redpoint project, or vice versa.
- Do some mental training if you’ve only focused on physical training.
These will expose your weaknesses so you can learn from them. Having a preference for your weaknesses, will help you grow as a climber.
This Post Has 5 Comments
There’s lots to say here, but here’s one that trips me up
I have noticed that there are a handful of moves that I really like and smile whenever I do them. It just feels right in my mind and body. So, I prefer to do them at times when it might not be the appropriate move for the conditions, either making the climb harder or more dangerous or both.
Interesting Brant. It’s important to acknowledge when moves “feel right in mind and body.” That too is a characteristic to pay attention to. Those characteristics seem to turn into preferences when forcing those moves in situations where they could make the climbing harder or more dangerous. You can perhaps bridge the gap between the two by looking for ways to modify your
“feel right” moves a little in those harder/dangerous situations. See what happens. 🙂 a
Arno, you say: “Much of mental training has to do with expanding awareness.” I fully agree with this principle. I feel ok with it when being on the ground and in my comfort zone. I find it hard when being in a stressful situation and I have a tendency to fall back into preferred behaviors. What might be actionable steps to improve on that?
Hi Helen, Great question. Something that is helpful to keep in mind is the need for being in a “learning zone”, where the level of stress is manageable. With too much stress, your attention will contract and you won’t be able to expand awareness.
–
A helpful way to determine whether the stress is manageable could be: noticing your willingness to engage the climb. How excited are you for engaging it? Perhaps you are willing and excited on the ground, but then feel overwhelmed on the climb. If so, then find a climb that is a little easier.
–
Once you’ve found a climb that has the correct level of stress, then you can apply the 5 processes (resting, thinking, decision-making, moving, falling) that you’re familiar with. Here, awareness can expand by noticing how well you’re able to cycle between stopping and moving, and how well you’re able to keep your attention focused on the chosen process.
Example: You finished resting, thinking, and deciding… and commit to climbing. Now you’re entering into the stress with the intention to focus on the elements of breathing, continuous movement, staying relaxing, and maintaining eye contact on the holds. You expand your awareness by noticing how well you can keep your attention on these elements.
One of the most difficult aspect of mental training is being able to distinguish between “thinking” and “awareness.” When you focus on those elements that I listed in the previous example, make sure your attention is sensory-based, not thinking-based. Meaning, you hear your breathing; you aren’t thinking about if you’re breathing correctly. You feel the hand-hold; you aren’t thinking about whether or not you can hold it without falling. You feel your grip relaxing; you aren’t thinking you’re going to fall because you’re over-gripping.
Look out the window right now. Expand your gaze to take in all the light, shapes, etc. Keep your eyes relaxed. This is awareness.
Now, start thinking about the light: “The light is really bright. The leaves on the trees haven’t changed colors yet. I wonder why.” This is thinking.
Now switch between the two: expand and relax your gaze…start thinking about what you’re seeing.
Doing an exercise like this can give you a clearer understanding of the difference between thinking and awareness, which can help you notice when you aren’t focusing on the proper elements for the processes. With that noticing, you expand awareness and can redirect attention.
Does this help? a
Hi Arno
Thank you for this motivating gift! I’ll have it with me from now on when going climbing.