The Art of Redpointing
By Arno Ilgner, Heather Weidner, and Climbing Magazine
What You’ll Learn:
Heather sent it
She sent it despite her fear of serious injury; of the uncertainty if she could actually do the route. She sent it despite 70+ attempts on a 5.14a trad runout route. Oh, and her belayer was also her husband; how’s that for relationship health?
There are plenty of climbers who climb 5.14 but less than 10 have done China Doll. Heather is one of those 10. And it’s not because she’s just a beast. You don’t need to be a beast to redpoint at your limit.
In fact, physically strength isn’t as important as what Heather developed.
So how’d she do it? How’d she send China Doll?
She has her systems figured out. Not just the basics of watching the weather, figuring out where the yellow C3 went, or what 3 cams to place on her front right gear loop for the crux move.
She does the deeper work most of us don’t do.
She writes out the beta sequence in order to remember since China Doll is so long; preps her mind for a day of climbing work before rolling out of bed; stops using beta when it no longer works; and keeps her head screwed straight when it wants to go sideways.
Heather and Arno, while considered to be top climbers, aren’t super human.
They have off days just like you, and the same life challenges. Heather and Arno teach in Art of Redpointing how to climb your best despite the off days.
That route that you’ve been eying? Art of Redpointing teaches you how to send it using their proven systems; systems that work for any climber who loves the challenge of the redpoint.
7 Sins of Redpointing & Succeeding with Failure
Maybe your belayer short changed you on the clip; maybe the dog was barking and took your attention; or a climber a route over was blasting Drake.
All valid reasons for not getting the redpoint.
But in reality, most redpoint failures relate to one of these 7 issues:
- Not giving a 100 percent and yelling “take!”
- Falling due to overall fatigue
- Hitting a mental wall
- Negative Progress – Unable to repeat sequences and moves over a few days
- Not overcoming poor conditions
- Having a poor attitude
- Tunnel vision and not seeing the holds and sequence(s)
You’ve spent weeks training to get strong. You can go bolt to bolt and reach the anchors. You’ve even linked sections, and yet, still no ‘send.
If it’s not your ability or strength causing the failed ‘send, then what?
It’s one of the 7 Sins of Redpointing.
Art of Redpointing provides step by step videos and text on how to overcome each of the 7 sins of redpointing and how to learn with through failing.
When you watch certain climbers consistently send challenging routes, it isn’t due to pure strength or headspace. They simply practice a very different way of approaching climbing.
Send consistently with the Art of Redpointing.
Why a course on The Art of Red Pointing?
How Art of Redpointing Works
Who teaches the course?
I do, along with pro-climber, Heather Weidner.
Hi, I’m Arno. Other climbers frequently note me as a pioneering rock climber with bold and dangerous first ascents in the 1970s and ‘80s. After a while, friends and other climbers asked me to help them develop a similar mental ability, eventually leading to the creation the unique mental training program called The Warrior’s Way.
Since 1995, I’ve helped thousands of students, from every day, climbers to pro climbers like Heather, sharpen their awareness, focus attention, and understand challenges within a learning-based, risk-taking philosophy that makes climbing better.
I hold an American Mountain Guides Association Single Pitch Instructor certification, and reside with family in Nashville, Tennessee.
We’ve designed this course to go at your own pace; do what you can when you can.
Heather and I use videos and photos so you fully understand and see each lesson.
Each session builds on the last one, over 9 weeks, but you can take it as quickly or slowly as you want; and once you purchase the course, the courses is yours forever.
If you have questions or need help, just reach out. We want you to succeed and are happy to answer questions.
What’s included with Art of Redpointing
Satisfaction Guarantee. Don’t love it? Let us know within 14 days, and we’ll give you a full refund.
- Lifetime access.
- Step by step directions and exercises to send your redpoint.
- Specific drills you can do at home, at the gym, at the cliff.
- How to fix the 7 Sins of Redpointing.