Develop better mental focus for leading trad rock climbing routes. Learn to trust your cams and nuts and hand/fist jamming ability.
We work with you to develop this trust by:
- Falling on gear in progressive stages so it never seems too scary
- Training you to move continuously and easily when jamming
- Quickly and precisely choosing and placing gear to avoid wasting energy
- Improve your overall mental focus through application of The Warrior’s Way mental training process.
You will finish this trad mental training course comfortable with cam and nut gear placement, styles of movement when climbing cracks, and improved mental skills to use on trad climbs.
On Father Time (5.13.b trad, 2000 ft, 20 pitches, Grade VI, Yosemite), in these moments of hesitation, I remembered what Arno taught me. In moments of rest, allow the mind to analyze and plan. But in the moment of climbing, turn the mind off and execute. Don’t say ‘Take!!’
Nina Williams, pro-climber & a North Face athlete
Learn How To:
- Assess various types of active and passive trad protection and learn how fall forces, angles of impact, and kilonewton (Kn) ratings work in order to develop a deeper understanding (and trust) of how protection holds (or not) during falls
- Improve your jamming skills (from fingers, to hands, fists, and in-between sizes)
- Evaluate terrain factors on your gear placements, such as how corners, traverses, and roofs impact them
- Assess risks effectively (when to place gear and when not too; deciding what gear to use, fall zones)
- Improve commitment and mental focus to make the hard moves and stay calm during run-out sections
- Increase, or elevate, safety awareness
What We Won’t Cover:
- Equalizing anchors
- Multi-pitch transitions
- Other basic trad skills
Pre-requisites:
- Able to lead 5.8 sport, or top-rope 5.9 with no falls
- Climb indoors/outdoors at least 1-2 times per week
- At least 9 months of continuous climbing experience within the last year
- Some experience leading trad routes
- Understand at least the basics of how cams and nuts work and are placed
Your course trainer will customize this trad course to focus more (or less) on topics of your interest and experience.
