Click here to listen: Audio eLesson 2012-0319
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I’m half-way out the 40-foot roof of Gilgamesh placing a large cam. I’m pumped but able to place it. I doubt my muscles can hold my present position, with even more doubt about continuing. My attention begins to contract.
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Climbing a difficult route is stressful and attention will contract under that stress. With attention contracted our thinking and actions will also contract. Our minds will begin to doubt and our bodies will tense and stop moving. Attention contracts our thinking and actions at the precise moment when we need to stay engaged. How can we keep our attention expanded?
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First, don’t become overwhelmed. This is challenging when climbing a route such as Gilgamesh. Being up-side-down is a strange position to be in and there is a sense of not being able to stop to rest for the entire roof. Yet, it’s still made up of subtle rest stops, positions to place cams, and sequences to climb. It’s a helpful reminder to NOT make it more than it actually is.
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Second, I know that I’ll need to keep attention on processes such as breathing, relaxing, and continuous movement. Setting an intention to keep attention on these processes will help me redirect attention to them when stress begins its effect on me.
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Finally, having a coach that isn’t stressed, such as my belayer, can help. She can remind me to stay open to possibilities, to breathe, relax, and “make the next move.” Her coaching can help me notice when my attention contracts my thinking and actions. I notice my doubts more easily and redirect my attention to possibilities. I notice my body tense and redirect my attention to relaxing, breathing, and making the next move.
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I’ve been on Gilgamesh eight times. Reminding myself of processes to focus on and my belayer’s helpful coaching has accelerated my progress. I’ve climbed it with only one fall. I’ll be returning to Gilgamesh in April to refine my application of these processes.
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This Post Has 7 Comments
Excellent guidance Arno. I can think of numerous times when I have become overwhlemed and either had to take and/or sit on my gear. Only to then look around and find some hold or rest that was not directly in front of me that I had been looking past or unable to see because I was caught up in a contracted, desparation mind! Thanks for articulating the process clearly!
Agreed, rad post. What you said rings very true. It’s amazing how fast the body reacts to the changing thoughts you may have while on a climb. I recall one very specific occasion where I oscillated between feeling like I could make it and doubting that I could; and the immediate change in strength I felt in my arms and body – either strong or not – was incredible. Those contracted thoughts seemed to carry a physical sensation as though my vision and body contracted too. I delayed my decision to give up and while still close to my last cam I made some objective decisions about my gear placements. It was amazing how after I slowed down to do those things my thoughts and all the other stuff opened up. My strength returned so I could keep climbing. It was very different than being pumped only because the climbing was physically demanding; it was largely a psychological barrier, like placing a governor on an engine.
Arno, perhaps you have spoken about it previously or may do so in the future. But on your return to Gilgamesh – or other projects for that matter – do you find that expectations you have about your ability to do the moves affects the attention processes or your ability to actually climb the whole route.
Hi Steele, Expectations about my ability? Yes, I focus my expectations on the processes I will be applying on the route, such as breathing, staying relaxed, effective resting, and commitment to movement. I keep expectations off the end result. Does this answer your question? Arno
Arno,
I enjoyed the audio clip that you’ve included. I am aware that I tend to limit my attention (tunnel vision) when I’m pumped, or believe that I’m pumped. Along with a committed workout routine (3-4 X week), remaining open to “look for paths of least resistance” allows me to remain calm, breath, and continue moving. I did wonder if just the “thought’ of being in better shape has helped, as opposed to actually being in better physical shape, but decided it didn’t matter. Could it be that the thought and workout are both helping, and that allows me to open up a bit? Your comments…
Hi Robby, Todd Skinner once told me that the main benefit of being physically strong is KNOWING you are strong. So yes, the physical strength you receive from working out and climbing builds confidence in the mind that you have reserves and resources to deal with the climbing challenge. Arno
Thanks Arno, I appreciate your encouragement!
Arno, yeah, that was a great answer thanks.
Rob Maffei & Arno, I agree with the comments about strength and its relevance to psychological preparedness. I always feel like the more you to do prepare yourself then the more confidence you carry with you through a climb. Just being organised and collected on the ground, regular stretching and knowing you’ve prepared well adds a lot to the climb. Not only those actions themselves (like strength training or stretching), but the fact that ‘you know you’ve done what you need to’ in order to be there with a good shot at your objective is helpful all by itself.