In the last lesson I outlined how we can be analytical or intuitive in our redpoint approach and how that can limit or help us while redpointing.
To improve our redpointing we need to diminish the limiting tendency (i.e. being too much analytical or intuitive vs developing both).
A Recap About Analytical & Inuitive Climbing
Recall that analytical climbers tend to make accurate, detailed plans, and rehearse thoroughly. Their challenge is to stop over-thinking, modifying their plan, during the redpoint effort.
Intuitive climbers tend not to work the route enough to make detailed plans. Then, they use a lot of energy refining it during redpoint efforts. They don’t think enough.
How to Stick to The Redpoint Plan and When to Climb
In redpointing, we need to work a route enough to create an accurate plan, and then stick to it.
Thinking about what to do becomes less important than thinking about when to act.
If you are more analytical, then you will tend to stall out, get stuck at stances and over-think. You may think about alternative plans or stay at stances too long. Doing this will delay when it’s best to commit to the next section.
If you are more intuitive, then you will tend to rush and under-think. You won’t rest enough at stances and rush into climbing too quickly. Doing this will hurry your decision about when it’s best to commit to the next section.
Either way, you need to utilize stances long enough to rest and decide when is best to continue climbing.