Investigating Mental Training
Investigating mental training is so intriguing because, as we dig into it, subtle ways of understanding and using our attention are revealed. It’s especially helpful when we can develop practices to improve our mental game. Knowing that being mentally fit requires us to have our attention focused in the moment, gives us a central tenet to guide our investigation and practice.
Other Disciplines
Through our training, we give students specific processes for focusing their attention, so it’s on task and not on what they fear. It’s cool to come across other disciplines that give evidence that supports this. One such discipline is General Semantics (GS), which was developed in the 1930s by Alfred Korzybski. GS digs into how we use language and how language uses us. If we don’t become aware of how language uses us, then we’ll fall victim to it.
Korzybski’s tome (Science and Sanity) on GS is laborious reading. I’ve read through an abbreviated version, but other GS authors present his material in ways that are easier to read, understand, and apply. One such author is Ted Falconar, who wrote Creative Intelligence. A simple concept in GS is “the map is not the territory.” This means that the map we perceive in the mind, is not the actual territory out there in the world. Unless we’re aware, we’ll use the map instead of the territory. We’ll focus our attention on a false mental map, instead of the real territory we’re engaging in.
Ted Falconar relates how the flow of our attention determines whether we rely on the false map or investigate the real territory. Let’s say we’re on-sighting a difficult route. At stopping points, our attention is focused in the mind to do critical risk-assessment thinking. Then, when it’s time to climb, we shift our attention to the body, to climb. On-sighting, however, has many unknowns: what holds should we use; how should we use them; will we be able to use them? Such questions direct our attention into the mind, using memory to understand what actions to take. This splits our attention between the body and the mind, causing hesitation in our commitment, and fear.
How Fear is Created
To understand how fear is created we begin by investigating the two ways our attention can flow: to reinforce the map in the mind, or to investigate the territory (the climb). First, attention can flow to reinforce the map, if we allow our attention to flow from the object to the observer. We see an object, a small hold. The visual sense impressions flow from object to observer; from the hold to us. Then the mind mixes the sense impressions with memory. We rely on past memory to determine the usability of the hold. We don’t understand the territory (the hold) because we have our attention focused on the map (past memories of small holds).
Second, attention can flow to investigate the territory. We reverse the flow of attention by directing it from observer to object. Our attention flows from us to the hold and into its details. To do this, we intentionally by using our senses of sight and touch. We look for subtleties in the object (hold) like its shape, size, and orientation. We feel the hold and how our hand or foot integrates with it. This shifts our attention to the territory we’re engaging in and allows us to understand it as well as possible. We’re not perceiving what’s possible based on past memory; we’re determining reality based on engagement with the hold, now.

Motvation, Awareness & Intention
Motivation determines how our attention will flow. The mind’s natural comfort-seeking tendency causes our attention to flow from object to observer. This reinforces our mental map, what’s already comfortable for us.
It takes awareness, intention, and effort to reverse the direction of the flow of our attention. In other words, we need to be motivated toward stress, not comfort. It’s more stressful to direct our attention from observer to object because we’re leaving our comfort zone and entering the unknown. Therefore, a shift in our motivation is critical.
Observer
We also influence the flow state, an optimal state of performance that all athletes strive to attain, by how our attention flows. We create a dual situation when our attention flows from object to observer. We separate into two distinct things: climber and rock. The climber fights with the rock, preventing any flow from occurring.
We create a unity situation when our attention flows from observer to object. We connect and integrate with the climb, blending with it, so there isn’t a dual situation anymore. Observer and object, climber and rock, unite; duality shifts to unity. This helps us attain the flow state.
Simplicity
This may sound like a complicated process, but really there’s a simplicity to it all. Motivation drives how we’ll use our attention. The mind’s comfort-seeking motivation causes our attention to flow from the rock to us, mixing with past memories that keep us within our comfort zones. We believe the false map in our heads, instead of the reality of the territory we’re engaging in. All that’s needed is awareness to change how we’re motivated, so our attention can change direction. We willingly engage stress by directing our attention toward the rock. We see a positive, one-pad-wide hold on a slight angle. We feel it, wiggle our fingers around to grab it, and pull on it. We leave the map behind and enter the territory. What the mind fears is transformed through actions. Duality shifts to unity; we become one with the rock and flow with it.
Practice Tip: See and Feel the Holds
You’ll have a tendency to allow your attention to flow from the holds to the mind and doubt your ability to use them. Doing this frames what’s possible based on what was comfortable for you in the past.
Rather, intentionally direct your attention toward the holds. Look at the hold. Engage your visual (sight) and kinesthetic (feeling) senses. See the subtleties of the hold, its shape, size, and orientation. Feel the texture and irregularities of the hold and how your hand/foot blends with it. The hold’s usability will be based on how you grab it today, how you feel today, and all the other factors that are relevant today. You’re framing what’s possible based on what you’re engaging now.
This Post Has 4 Comments
I agree, Arno, that flow is a direct derivative of one’s motivation. My best ascents are almost always on sights. New routes are a big motivator to me. I seriously WANT to succeed on the first go. Along with this comes BELIEF that I can accomplish my goal. There is a power that comes from the on sight attempt that is often transcendent. It pushes me beyond what I might normally be capable of. Often, upon returning to a route I have on sighted, I find it more difficult and intimidating. Perhaps due to prior knowledge. Not knowing how taxing a route will be allows the mind to trick itself into a higher level of confidence which, in turn, frees the will to try header and push through the difficulties. This becomes clearly evident in the gym where a newly created route has not been assigned a consensus grade. I feel greater motivation to do such a route than I would if an intimidatingly high grade had been pinned to it. This approach is no guarantee of success of course but I often surprise myself by just what I am capable of. One good on sight can make my day.
Hi Steve, thanks for your thoughts on how motivation plays into attention and on-sighting. Seems like you have some strength for unknown, ambitious (on-sight) situations. Continue to apply and become increasingly aware. a
This lesson clearly describes how I experience “success” as a new climber eg engaging “the territory”. This engagement is rich with discovery and meaning that is always beyond what I ever expect/anticipate! It makes climbing FUN! So… beginning my climbing and boldering experience in my mid 60s has been great! (I have no athletic background)
The only editorial feedback I have for the lesson writer, is to consider his comment about Korzybski’s Science and Sanity as being a “laborious read”. This comment is perhaps an example of a mind “map” style comment rather than that of the “territory.”
For example, after reading and contemplating the lesson, I googled a pdf copy of Science and Sanity on line (the 900 pager)…and dropping my mind map to experience the territory, found it to be delightful reading with pertaint, clear examples and an engaging use of humor! I experienced the pdf book supporting me to understand the difference between the use of mind map and the experience of “the territory”. Maybe this was easier for me to do than the lesson writer due to other similar successful experiences through my lifetime?
The other result seemingly inspired by the lesson, was that other unexpected resources instructing on the lesson topic suddenly popped into my day. What a delightful, supportive surprise!
This reminds me of my last climb. The goal of getting to the top of the challenging route seemed way beyond me. “I mean hey, I finally made it up a 5.2 without stopping the last time I was out!” This “LONG & HIGH” route was rated 5.8!
Well, I was willing to give it a try but then became discouraged. Even though I could see the chalk marks from other experienced climbers, successfully making it past the first two beginning moves still seemed to elude me. I felt even more discouraged after putting into practice suggestions from experienced climbers who just made the climb did not work for me either! So post 4 unsuccessful tries, I took a break.
During the break I decided to change my mind set to enjoy “the territory” and just have FUN!
When it was my turn to climb again, I no longer held the goal of “getting to the top”. I told my climbing instructors that I just want to play.
“Climbing on”, I began to experienced each move as delightful bliss–just me and the rock playing and exploring together. The first two moves, then third and fourth required focused effort, but then…I was moving upward and my path began unfolding.
Along the way, there were two natural resting places with a view, but the adventuer of climbing was even more captivating, so I only stopped briefly.
Suddenly it seemed that I was at the last bolt! While looking at the beauty surrounding me, my mind asked “How did you get here?”. I had no words, but found myself grinning with a mischievous laugh before offering the question to a light breeze that was gently touching my face. Meanwhile, my laughing smile carried heartfelt appreciation for the “territory of teamwork climbing” that my new found relationship with the rock had fostered. What delightful FUN!
Hi Diana, beautiful description you share of this whole process. And how cool it is that your curiosity of shifting to a mindset of fun engaged you in a way that really blended Diana, team, and the rock into a meaningful performance. Let the breeze take your question away, to be returned another day, when an answer meets it. 🙂 a